ABOUT PRODUCTS
This section is going to be about some of the materials and techniques used in my work. It's not going to be comprehensive, because a lot of further information can be found on the web once you have a starting place, and because life is short and nobody ever has enough time.
Polymer Clay
This is PVC (polyvinyl chloride, AKA vinyl) which hasn't been taken through the forming and curing parts of the manufacturing process, so that it can be shaped and then "baked" at home. It isn't as brittle as ceramic clays, so it won't shatter if dropped, but the surface is softer, so it can be scratched if it isn't handled gently.
Care of polymer clay items: If it's exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, the colors can eventually fade, so that should be avoided. Some chemicals can also damage the clay. It isn't as brittle as ceramic clays, so it won't shatter the way ceramics do if dropped, but the surface is softer. The surface, and especially delicate surface elements (tentacles on jellyfish, for example) or surface treatments (glazes) shouldn't be scratched or picked at, as they can be damaged. As with so many things, how long the pieces lasts is primarily related to how they're cared for.
Also, like most plastics PVC is not a food-grade plastic. While it's rated as safe for its appropriate use as an art material, there are components of vinyl that are toxic if consumed. That means that polymer clay jewelry shouldn't end up in the mouths of children or pets. (And children too young to keep their hands out of their mouths shouldn't be playing with the clay, either.) In addition, if the substance burns it will release toxic fumes, so that should be avoided.
Techniques: Cane-working is the best-known polymer clay technique, which is similar to the "millefiori" technique in glass-working. For those who aren't familiar with the concept, canes are built in a way similar to how sushi rolls are built, and hold a pattern when cut in cross-section across the roll in the same way.
Polymer clay can also be sculpted like organic clays, except that the clay already comes in colors and can be mixed in more colors, so there's no need to apply surface color, and there's no need for a kiln since the clay cures at a much lower temperature than organic clays.
The clay can also be folded, draped like fabric, run through pasta machines with a variety of effects, subjected to treatments and techniques used in wood-working, molded, woven in strips, and quite a lot more. There may be more ways to use this art material than any other. You can find a lot more info on the web, and there are also some great books on the subject. The book "The New Clay," by Nan Roche, came out way back in 1991 but it's still the ultimate book on polymer clay techniques.
STRINGING MATERIALS
Beading Wire
This is nylon-coated multi-strand wire cable, and is the toughest stringing material there is. The strength I normally use has 49 wires, and typically requires wire cutters to sever, so it's meant to last (and like all other products on this site, is not intended for children to wear).Soft-Flex is the brand of beading wire I use most often. If the brand, strength, or type of beading wire varies from this description, I'll state that in the product description.
Power-Pro Brand Beading Thread
Power-Pro brand thread is an extremely strong, braided polyurethane stringing material that's more like cord than thread, but it's slender enough to be used for some netted and woven bead-work as well as for stringing.Nylon Beading Thread
This is what is used for most bead-weaving, since the thread has to not only be strong but also has to be thin enough to pass several times through typical glass seed beads (usually size 11) and other small beads.Caring for thread and cord: Anything strung or woven on thread or cord should be kept away from flame and extreme heat that could burn fibers, or melt synthetic fibers, and any sharp objects that could snag or cut through the material.
ABOUT METALS
Most of my jewelry does not include precious metals. Because of their greater affordability and strength, I often use brass, gold-plated metal, and other "base metals." But many people have one of two problems with a lot of metals:- Metal allergies: Contact dermatitis (rash) when the skin touches some metals. The severity of allergic reactions as well as the range of metals that can cause the reaction varies.
- Metal corrosion: On some people metals corrode very rapidly, causing the metal and the wearer's skin to turn green. This is actually due to a feature of the wearer. Some people have unusually acidic skin, so much so that their skin corrodes metal (aliens among us!). And then of course some people just like precious metals better.
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